Starting prices, in-house fabric range

Fabric

This is the single biggest variable, and it is not close. A Galaxy house blend costs a fraction of a Holland & Sherry super 150s. Our fabric library holds more than 10,000 swatches spanning both ends of that range. We show you the bunch and the merchant name before you commit, so you always know what you are paying for.

Construction

A fused jacket is the most affordable. A half-canvas jacket holds its shape better over years of wear. A full-canvas jacket moulds to your body over time and is the most labour-intensive to build. We quote each option separately rather than folding it into one number.

Garment count

A two-piece suit is jacket and trousers. Adding a waistcoat makes it a three-piece and adds cloth and labour. Spare trousers are a common addition for a suit worn several times a week, since trousers wear out long before the jacket does.

Detailing

Lining choice, working cuff buttons, pick stitching, monogramming, contrast buttonholes and pocket style all carry small costs. Individually they are minor. Together they add up, which is why we itemise them at quotation rather than at collection.

Fused

The jacket front is bonded to an interlining with adhesive. Quick to make, holds a clean line when new, most affordable. Over many years and many dry cleans, fused fronts can eventually bubble.

Half canvas

Canvas runs through the chest and lapel, stitched rather than glued, with fusing lower down. The lapel rolls naturally instead of looking pressed flat. For most clients this is the sensible middle.

Full canvas

Canvas runs the full length of the jacket front, stitched throughout. The most labour-intensive to build and the most forgiving over time, because it gradually conforms to your chest and posture.

Ask where the garment is made.

Many shops on Sukhumvit take the order and send the work to a third-party workshop. That is not inherently bad, but it means nobody in the shop controls quality or timing. We cut and sew on site, which is why we can hold a 48-hour turnaround.

Ask which fabric, by name.

“Italian wool” is not a fabric. Vitale Barberis Canonico is. A tailor who will name the mill and show you the bunch is quoting something real.

Ask what construction you are being quoted.

This single question explains most price gaps between shops.

Ask what happens if the fit is wrong.

Alterations on our own garments are free.

Be sceptical of the cheapest quote.

A suit priced far below everything else in the street is usually fused, cut from unnamed cloth, and made somewhere you will never see. It will look acceptable in the shop mirror and lose its shape within a year.